Mountains, marmots, and a Mini adventure: summer in the French Alps

The French Alps – home to mountains, lakes, marmots and an abundance of cheese – the perfect alternative summer getaway if you’re sick of all inclusive sand and sangria. Not for the faint-hearted, you’ll need a head for heights and (if you’re going to drive there) good spacial awareness, but it’s definitely worth the palpitations…

Automatic for the people

We flew into Geneva airport where we’d arranged to pick up our hire car. Upon arrival, we heard the words everyone enjoys: “complimentary upgrade” and received instructions on where to find the vehicle in the garage. What we’d ordered and what we received were different in size, spec and transmission. Having never driven an automatic before, I struggled to even get the beasty Mini Clubman moving out of its very tight space, and had to ask a man to show me. Oh the shame. Top tip: it took a good ten minutes, an emergency stop and embarrassing horn blowing incident later to finally work out NOT to use my left foot to brake. Eventually we were out on the open road, and starting our Savoyarde adventure. With SatNav instructing us in French, we turned the wrong way, drove over the border and back into Switzerland…

Chamonix on tap

An hour later than planned, we arrived in beautiful Chamonix. Famous for Mont Blanc and its pretty buildings, it was the perfect start to the holiday. We stayed in Hotel de L’Arve – cute alpine accommodation right on the river and centrally located. We commandeered the games room and drank bière pression (Heineken on tap) to our heart’s content.

The next morning, after a very useful visit to tourist information, we headed towards Le Brévent via a gondola lift and cable car for stunning views of the surrounding mountain range. Just before the top, the lift operator ‘accidentally’ activated the emergency stop, leaving us swinging in mid-air at almost 2,525m. Horrifying at the time, it later proved life-affirming and made the high-altitude beer taste even better. Or at least that’s what I keep telling myself…

Other recommendations: Chamonix Social Club – great music, ambience and cocktails; La Tablée – local cuisine in wood chalet chic.

Devil in the detail at Les Deux Alpes

In the middle of the holiday, we’d arranged to stay with friends in ski resort Les Deux Alpes, approximately three hours drive from Chamonix. Situated in Isère, built in 1946 on former mountain pastures of the villages of Mont de Lans and Venosc, it was sunny, friendly and interesting – with plenty to see and do. A stark contrast to out-of-season Courchevel which was essentially shut for summer.

We decided having experienced the gondola and télécabine that we really ought to make it a hat trick with the chairlift, and dutifully bought tickets for Le Diable, aka ‘the devil’. It was a beautiful day and we got great views as we ascended, then from the top where we walked to meet our friends at a nearby lake. They brought their quad bike which was great fun, if a little hair-raising; we spotted marmots a plenty and even found a tiny, naturally-formed crystal.

During the evening, we walked up piste to Warrior’s 3600 for a game of France v England laser tag. Unfortunately the French beat us, but I look forward to a future rematch, perhaps Laser Quest Sheffield… ?! Anyway, those who know me will know I love a good laser tag game – great fun and rounded off with drinks and chansons françaises!

Other recommendations: L’Igloo – great drinks, delicious food.

The Venice of the Alps

Our final few days were spent in Annecy, renowned for its historic buildings, cosy canal streets and big, beautiful, blue (perhaps turquoise?) lake. Our accommodation ‘Chuuut!’ was in the eaves of a 200 year old house, squeezed in between the modern day shops of Rue Carnot. Host Pauline gave us a lovely warm welcome and we enjoyed waterside drinks at Le Munich.

When in Annecy it’s customary to go to the lake either on a boat or to swim. Naturally we hired a pedalo in the sunshine.

Other recommendations: Au Fût et à mesure – top up your card and try all the beers, hand pulled, then order a platter to your table! Great fun… Chez Mamie Lise – traditional food in a cosy restaurant.

Inspired to visit?

We arranged the whole holiday with 7 nights’ accommodation, flights and a hire car for less than £800 each in summer school holidays. Flights from Manchester to Geneva can be a real bargain with Easyjet, and booking.com provides lots of hotel and apartment options.

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